Bibliography

(In order of use : first down to last)

-http://www.thebeautybiz.com/87/article/history/beauty-through-ages-victorians

-http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/books/article-1305730/The-ugly-face-Victorian-beauty-BEAUTIFUL-FOR-EVER-BY-HELEN-RAPPAPORT.html

-http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2010/08/06/beauty-in-the-victorian-age/

-http://www.thevictoriangarden.co.za/FascinatingVTCosmetics.html

-http://www.wikiart.org/en/claude-monet/camille-monet-in-the-garden

-http://www.gogmsite.net/russian-style-between-1837-/subalbum-elizaveta-alexandr/1853-elizaveta-alexandrovna.html

-http://images.ezine9.com/imagemanager2/files/30009509/2012/05/2012-05-08-15-53-50-4-lana-del-rey-may-2012.jpeg 

-http://www1.pictures.stylebistro.com/pc/Lana+Del+Rey+Dresses+Skirts+Day+Dress+0qRnh7_yj1dl.jpg

-https://threadbythread.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/queen_victoriawedding.jpg
-http://thegraphicsfairy.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Queen-Victoria-GraphicsFairy1.jpg
-http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c5/Stieler_Archduchess_1832.jpg
-http://individual.utoronto.ca/beaujot/web2/images/bwhair7.jpg
-https://ladiesof2318.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/victorian-hairstyles.jpg
-http://ancientpoint.com/imgs/a/a/o//y/19thc_antique_john_l_harding_oc_portrait_oil_painting_young_victorian_woman_3_lgw.jpg
-https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/56/9b/93/569b935b8aa14f7f011fb8949caffb25.jpg

-http://www.canterburycathedrallodge.org/UserFiles/Image/Canterbury%20Christmas%20low%20res%20web.jpg
-http://www.familyholiday.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/inside-canterbury-cathedral.jpg  

-http://www.today.com/id/24581670/ns/today-entertainment/t/hd-unforgiving-actors-makeup-artists/#.VOPbIi4oa8B
-http://www.creativeartistryfx.com/high_resolution_media.pdf 

-http://www.webmd.com/beauty/aging/cosmetic-procedures-aging-skin -http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/004014.htm -http://www.webmd.com/beauty/aging/effects-of-aging-on-skin  -http://www.skintreatmentweb.info/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Wrinkled-skin.jpg -http://www.caddellslaserclinic.com/Assets/skin%20care/wrinkled%20skin.jpg -http://skincarebylouisa.com/wp-content/gallery/wrinkles/wrinkles7.jpg -http://www.regionalderm.com/Regional_Derm/RD_Large/Solar_purpura1.jpg -http://castleknockcosmetics.ie/wp2/wp-content/gallery/sagging-jowls/sagging-jowls-1.jpg -http://www.spray-tan-byron-bay.com/images/Rosacea.jpg

-http://www.history.co.uk/study-topics/history-of-death/victorians-and-the-art-of-dying -http://royalcentral.co.uk/blogs/the-widow-of-windsor-a-queen-in-mourning-9585 -http://www.sparknotes.com/biography/victoria/section5.rhtml

-http://classroom.synonym.com/victorian-era-wedding-traditions-7133.html -http://www.angelpig.net/victorian/ceremony.html

-http://thedesignersmuse.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/new-on-masterpiece-classic-great.html
-http://www.enotes.com/homework-help/describe-miss-havisham-her-house-24291

-http://www.steadyhealth.com/articles/the-effects-of-heartbreak-on-your-body-a2462.html

-http://abcnews.go.com/Health/Wellness/heartbreak-affects-health/story?id=17518735

-http://www.drsinatra.com/heartbreaks-emotional-stress-can-affect-you-physically

-http://www.bbc.com/future/story/20150213-how-love-and-heartbreak-affect-us

-http://www.medicaldaily.com/science-breaking-how-heartbreak-hurts-your-physical-and-mental-health-306320

-http://www.healthline.com/health/malnutrition#Symptoms4

-https://janeaustensworld.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/young-estella.jpg

-https://skiesdreamblue.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/vanessakirby_estella.jpg

-http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02119/estella_2119472b.jpg 

-http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02063/Florence-Reed_2063026i.jpg

-http://www.trbimg.com/img-50b45352/turbine/la-jean-simmons1946_kwo5senc/450/253x450

-https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbfG_3rLmGV6KAbGo6_dfwy8DDMyZf8T7dJaiVGMGdp2yM1oyFeqTnMgEuWrwjC_DYfiIOc-b3FtH0Q_oovKVMAU-9ueik77VGiDqComHj371qLIe3y5hUI8ElHxWHcKLeXIZQ02OcgnfC/s1600/Valerie+Hobson.jpg

-http://www.aceshowbiz.com/images/still/great-expecations-omg01.jpg

-http://trueblood.wikia.com/wiki/Category:Species -http://religionandpolitics.org/2012/08/27/vampires-gay-rights-and-the-political-underpinnings-of-hbos-true-blood/ -http://www.theweek.co.uk/entertainment/19491/true-blood-why-young-women-are-lapping-it# -http://flavorwire.com/398558/why-do-we-keep-coming-back-to-true-blood
-http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/Agoraphobia/Pages/Introduction.aspx -http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/cognitive-behavioural-therapy/pages/introduction.aspx -http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Girl,_Interrupted_(film)#Plot -http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0172493/ -http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skins_(UK_TV_series) -http://www.imdb.com/character/ch0036824/bio    

 

 

Gothic horror evaluation

I loved how much this project challenged me as I feel I have developed my skills as a make-up artist and knowledge of the industry. I also enjoyed learning about gothic horror and the Victorian period as I have always enjoyed history, so having it made relevant to my course is twice as interesting and satisfying.
One of the most challenging parts of this project has been the continuity. Continuity never really crossed my mind until I had to do it myself and has given me a whole new respect for the make-up and hair teams that work on TV and film productions as it is so hard and requires a lot of talent and practise to be successful at. If I could re-do a part of this project I would love to have another go at the continuity to see if I could make them more similar than they were. As I had never read Great Expectations before or watched any of the films and really enjoyed learning about Miss Havishams character in particular. I really enjoyed our special effects make-up lessons with Sue and hope to be able to continue in this area on the prosthetics unit next year so I can improve on what we have already been taught.

My favourite part of the project has been Claudia and Quentin as it gave us a lot of freedom and opportunity to create almost whatever we wanted. I really liked that we were given character profiles as it helped with the design process and made it more challenging at the same time. I wish this part of the project had been longer so we could have had more time to create even better design concepts and final photographs, however I am happy with my character designs and especially proud of my Quentin images. One of my favourite lessons was in Fenella’s class where we got to recreate a gothic inspired look from the catwalk as we haven’t had any lessons like this and I think everyone really enjoyed this because there was a number of looks to choose from. I also really enjoyed Lotties hair lesson where we got to create three looks inspired by American Horror Story. At the beginning of the course and even second term I was really unconfident with hair styling and struggled creating the looks we did in class but at the end of my first year I can say I have improved a lot in practise and become a lot more comfortable and find it really enjoyable to learn.

I am feeling really positive about second year and am looking forward to finding about the projects we are going to be getting are hands in to in the first term back. I am also really excited to find out which unit I have been given for our choices as I thought this was a really good way of letting us specialise in what we are really interesting in alongside our compulsory projects.

Retouched Quentin image

Quentins final shoot on location - final images

Submission images (One portrait mid length and one profile):

Other images I liked from the shoot:

More dramatic shots that I took and edited:

I was really pleased with my Quentin look as its the first time I have worked on a boy so far at uni and I was unsure of how to approach the make-up designs for this particular character at first. I think the relaxed, normal nature of the  styling and hair contrast well against the crazy make-up. If I could do this again I would maybe choose a location such a heavily wooded area to go with the creepiness of the effect caused by the make-up, however I think the bottom two images work really well as they were shot in a garage with little light and full of cobwebs and a creepy hand print made out of paint which complimented the gothic style.

Claudia's shoot in the studio - final images

Submission photos (One portrait mid length and one profile):

Other images from the shoot:

I was really pleased with how the hair and make-up turned out on the shoot, I think the look suited Jade so well and she had the perfect aesthetic to bring my Claudia to life. As she has such sharp, blue eyes I think the heavy, edgy eye make-up really makes them stand out and she already has quite thick eyebrows so they didn't need much filling in. I also think the nude lip works really well as it allows for the eyes to do all the talking while showing off and flattering her naturally full lips. I am glad I kept the hair and styling simple and casual like I did with Quentin also as it makes her more relateable to as the normal girl I wanted to potray her as, even though she lives in a crazy and unusual world.

Quentin practise

Here are my images of a dress rehearsal practise of my Quentin look.

Consultation notes:
Model - Daniel Newstead
Skin type - Fair, facial hair, dry
Hair - Not dyed, short
No allergies
No contra-indications

Equipment: 
- Brushes
- Kryolan supra color
- Matte Kryolan neutral eyeshadow palette
- Powder
- MAC shine
- Moisturiser
- Illamasqua white skinbase

Step-by-step:
1. Mix skin base and moisturiser and apply to models face, neck and ears to slightly lighten the skin.
2. Use an eyeshadow brush and a matte grey shadow and darken the eye area
3. Use a very fine brush and begin to paint veins on. I will use burgandy, red, white, blue and purple supra color for the veins. Slowly build them up by adding different colours and make sure not to forget the neck, hands and ears!
4. Once happy with the veins powder the face so the grease doesn't smudge
5. I then used a fan brush and a mixture of reds and black supra colour and applied it to the center of the lips and smudged it out a bit to look like dried  blood.
6. Add MAC shine over the eyelids to create a more feverish and clammy look.

Claudia practise

Here are images from my practise session on Jade, we practised my design until I was happy with the outcome and confident to create the look on the real shoot. We tried out making the eyeliner bolder and softer but decided it looked better bigger as it had a more striking look which I think looks really good on Jades piercing blue eyes.

Consultation notes:
Model - Jade Holmes
Skin type - Fair, combination
Hair - Mid length, dyed, brown with lighter ends, no problem with heat application
No Allergies
No contra-indictations


Equipment:
- Brushes
- Disposable mascara wand
- Mascara
- Matte neutral eyeshadow pallete by Kryolan
- Kryolan foundation palette
- Loose powder
- Illamasqua Sculpting powder duo
- Black khol eyeliner
- MAC honeylove lipstick
- Gosh lip pencil in Nougat crisp
- Illamasqua pigment in Beguile
- Rimmel eyebrow kit
- MAC vanilla pigment

Step-by-step:
1. Cleanse, tone and moisturise
2. Apply a base all over the face to create a flawless finish
3. Powder the base
4. Contour using the sculpting powder duo by Illamasqua to give depth to the face
5. Highlight the cheekbones using the sculpting powder duo by Illamasqua
6. Define eyebrows using the Rimmel kit, first using the wax and then setting with the powder
7. Highlight the brow bone using Vanilla pigment by MAC
8. Take the disposable mascara wand and using the tip apply mascara to the lid in spotting motions and follow the usual shape you would if creating a winged liner using eyeliner
9. Apply lots of mascara to the top and botton lashes for a heavy eye look
10. Once the mascara is dry take a fine brush and using a dark grey matte shadow apply below the bottom lash line to help balance out the top lid
11. Use a black khol (sharpened three times for hygiene) and apply to the water line to create an extra dark look
12. Using the Gosh lip liner, line the lips ready for lipstick and then again going slightly over the lips natural edge
13. Take a lip brush and apply honey love by MAC to the lips beginning in the middle and blending it out

True Blood moodboard

Quentins moodboard

Quentins final design

Consultation notes:
Model - Daniel Newstead
Skin type - Fair, facial hair, dry
Hair - Not dyed, short
No allergies
No contra-indications

 Here is my final design for Quentin, I am really pleased with it and excited to see how it turns out in practise. I decided to make the veins really dark and  horrible looking and take them onto the ears and neck and hands so it isn't just the eye area in the photos.

Equipment: 
- Brushes
- Kryolan supra color
- Matte Kryolan neutral eyeshadow palette
- Powder
- MAC shine
- Moisturiser
- Illamasqua white skinbase

Step-by-step:
1. Mix skin base and moisturiser and apply to models face, neck and ears to slightly lighten the skin.
2. Use an eyeshadow brush and a matte grey shadow and darken the eye area
3. Use a very fine brush and begin to paint veins on. I will use burgandy, red, white, blue and purple supra color for the veins. Slowly build them up by adding different colours and make sure not to forget the neck, hands and ears!
4. Once happy with the veins powder the face so the grease doesn't smudge
5. I then used a fan brush and a mixture of reds and black supra colour and applied it to the center of the lips and smudged it out a bit to look like dried  blood.
6. Add MAC shine over the eyelids to create a more feverish and clammy look.

Claudia's moodboard

Claudia's final design

Consultation notes:
Model - Jade Holmes
Skin type - Fair, combination
Hair - Mid length, dyed, brown with lighter ends, no problem with heat application
No Allergies
No contra-indictations

As I have always been a huge fan of the classic cat eye look I decided to give this a go using the technique I tried out during one of my initial devvelopments - mascara as eyeliner applied with a disposable wand. I loved the idea of this and thought it would give my Claudia the dark and sexy look I wanted while looking a bit more interesting and going with her unpredictable personality. 

Equipment:
- Brushes
- Disposable mascara wand
- Mascara
- Matte neutral eyeshadow pallete by Kryolan
- Kryolan foundation palette
- Loose powder
- Illamasqua Sculpting powder duo
- Black khol eyeliner
- MAC honeylove lipstick
- Gosh lip pencil in Nougat crisp
- Illamasqua pigment in Beguile
- Rimmel eyebrow kit
- MAC vanilla pigment

Step-by-step:
1. Cleanse, tone and moisturise
2. Apply a base all over the face to create a flawless finish
3. Powder the base
4. Contour using the sculpting powder duo by Illamasqua to give depth to the face
5. Highlight the cheekbones using the sculpting powder duo by Illamasqua
6. Define eyebrows using the Rimmel kit, first using the wax and then setting with the powder
7. Highlight the brow bone using Vanilla pigment by MAC
8. Take the disposable mascara wand and using the tip apply mascara to the lid in spotting motions and follow the usual shape you would if creating a winged liner using eyeliner
9. Apply lots of mascara to the top and botton lashes for a heavy eye look
10. Once the mascara is dry take a fine brush and using a dark grey matte shadow apply below the bottom lash line to help balance out the top lid
11. Use a black khol (sharpened three times for hygiene) and apply to the water line to create an extra dark look
12. Using the Gosh lip liner, line the lips ready for lipstick and then again going slightly over the lips natural edge
13. Take a lip brush and apply honey love by MAC to the lips beginning in the middle and blending it out

Quentin initial designs

Consultation notes:
Model - Daniel Newstead
Skin type - Fair, facial hair, dry
Hair - Not dyed, short
No allergies
No contra-indications

Because of the symptons Quentin suffers when he shifts too often and for too long I wanted to make him quite ill. Instead of using fake blood dripping down his face (one of the symptoms is vomitting blood) I decided I wanted to create the illusion of dried blood on his lips. I thought that using a mixture of red supra colours would do a good job for this.
As well as this I wanted to make him look quite tired  so decided to darken the eye area.

As the first design was too plain, I decided to play around with the idea of painting pale veins around the eyes to make the skin look thin and make him look more ill and suffering.
 

As Claudia's make-up was relatively normal I really wanted to go quite theatrical with Quentin so took the vein idea and decided to see how scary and painful I could make him look with my final design. I wanted to take gothic to a more extreme level with my Quentin.

I want to keep my models hair in his usual style as like with Claudia I want to keep the hair and fashion styling normal and simple looking. If I use any products it will be some hair wax to help hold his natural hair style. 

Claudia initial designs

Consultation notes:
Model - Jade Holmes
Skin type - Fair, combination
Hair - Mid length, dyed, brown with lighter ends, no problem with heat application
No Allergies
No contra-indictations


Design one:

This was my first design idea, as I wanted Claudia to look pretty with a dark edge I decided to go for a light eyeshadow in grey tones around the eyes with loads of mascara and a perfect nude pout. As this design was quite plain I decided to make it more smokey like how it looks below.

 I thought this was a more flattering and more bold look than the first design however realised I have done smokey eyes quite a lot before and realised this didn't show my technical ability enough so wanted to make more of a statement and show off my technical ability more.

Going with the whole idea of a bold eye and nude lip I created this design. Instead of using eyeliner or eyeshadow with the traditional smokey eye I used mascara on the end of a disposable wand to create a rough and very daring look. I also smudged the lipstick around the mouth to make her look slightly less normal and more unhinged but still so my model would look quite sexy in a vamp kind of way. As I want my character to fit in with the show more I realised this was too audacious so I changed the look once more before coming up with a final design I was happy with.

I am going to keep the hair in a casual and simple half-up, half-down do as I don't want it to be completely down but I don't want it in an elaborate up-do as I want to portray Claudia as quite plain in styling and hair. I don't want her to look too done up.

 

Claudia changes

I decided that instead of using Buffy as Claudias main icon I would make it more modern and use Effy in Skins as the main girl in the TV series she is currently watching as the show ran around the same time as when Claudia would be been introduced into true blood as, also because I think she suits the character more. Here is my new moodboard.
I have also decided as I am making Quentin look really supernatural I don't want Claudia to have an physical faery characteristics, her only halfling trait is her telepathy. My model for my shoot has brunette hair and blue eyes and I think she will look very striking and fit well for my Claudia design.

 

Quentin idea development

Above is the moodboard I made for my presentation with the very first ideas that came into my head for my Quentin character. I have decided as Claudia is going to be a relatively normal looking character, I want to make Quentin quite theatrical and dramatic which I can get away with as he doesn't even really exist! 

Quentin is going to be a skinwalker from True Blood. A skinwalker is a shapeshifter that can turn into other humans instead of just animals. I came across this idea as in Quentins character description it states that he changes in appearance to suit Claudia's mood. By being a skinwalker this makes him fit really well into the series. 

" As he is part of her imagination his appearance changes to suit her mood. Sometimes he will be a David Beckham looking guy, whilst in another scene he will appear as a Pete Docherty type, Daniel Craig type or a Hollyoaks Babe. If she is having a bad day he will morph into an uncouth couch potato chav with all that brings with it."

If a skinwalker shifts into another person for too long they experience some unpleasant and painful side affects. These side affects include:

• Fainting
• Extremely high fever
• Pain
• Vomiting blood

When Claudia is in a bad mood and can't make her mind up about who she wants Quentin to be she makes him shift as many times as she likes which makes him really weak and ill. Shifting too often can cause fatal problems for skinwalkers. In my designs I want to show this side of Quentin.

 

 

Claudia's female icons

As Claudia spends most of her time watching movies and TV shows I decided to think about what characters in shows/films I've seen that remind me of Claudia in personality and how I imagine her to look.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/f/f5/Girl,_Interrupted_Poster.jpg

My first character is Lisa Rowe from Girl, Interrupted. Girl, Interrupted came out in 1999 and directed by James Mangold based on the book by Susanna Kaysen which is her own true story. The story is an account of Kaysen's 18 month stay in a female mental institution and account of what happened. Susanna Kaysen's part was played by Winona Ryder and Angelina Jolie played Lisa Rowe, a sociopath who befriends Susanna. Lisa is very erratic and is smug about her diagnosis, she doesn't take her medicine and doesn't seem to want to get better. She gains pleasure from making other people unhappy and often taunts fellow patients about their condition and brings them down. She likes to act the villain. Angelina Jolie won the Academy Award for Best Supporting Actress, a Golden Globe Award and a Screen Actors Guild Award. Her personality traits remind me of how I believe Claudia could act when she is in a bad mood.

http://www.celebquote.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/tumblr_m321mtDtLF1r65t9po1_400_large.gif

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/21/40/a1/2140a19d8d005c353a53852280f2d7ba.jpg

In terms of appearance I imagine Claudia to be a relatively normal looking girl in the way she dresses but with a grungy edge. I thought about some characters on TV that I relate to this style and came up with Effy Stonem from Skins and Buffy the Vampire slayer.

I decided to concentrate on Effy as I am more familiar with her character and during the last series she starred in in Skins she suffered with mental illnesses that remind me of symptoms that are similar to some of Claudia's personality traits. Skins is a British drama that first aired in 2007, based in Bristol following the lives of a group of teenagers aged 16-18. It explores complex themes that people experience growing up such as family issues, mental illnesses, sex, sexual orientation, drugs & alcohol, bullying and death and each episode focuses on the story of one specific character. Effy Stonem is a mysterious, troubled girl who all the boy characters fancies and all the girls want to be. No one really understands her and Effy doesn't let many people get to know the real her. She takes a lot of drugs for someone her age and is quite promiscuous, she is a real party girl. In the third series she is the main character and when her parents split up she takes a turn for the worst and goes of the rails, becomes very depressed and stops looking after her appearance. When she falls in love with the guy who cares for her deeply (Freddie) she feels vulnerable as she has never felt this way about someone before. As her depression got worse and worse she became fully psychotic and after trying to commit suicide was hospitalised. Her psychiatrist fell in love with her and tried to make her forget her friends, family and most of all Freddie and whilst Effy is completely unaware, he murders Freddie.

http://www.polyvore.com/cgi/img-thing?.out=jpg&size=l&tid=10780416

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ScPYNtrSzK2iM_0eFAOWp-7JXA9IMrm_d6Ji82P2R8Z4TV8tG9fCwkQPYnSjGNrz0DttVD5Uvb95ouiJCCBSK7GQQ5MNrKIPacZLWv_T38JjxnouQI1hQW9LyZUnYTxz_Au7Jb2y1aD6/s640/blogger-image-1985639468.jpg

http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/enskins/images/a/a4/Tumblr_kyikoarexk1qzr7ibo1_500.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20110309200102

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/17/ee/01/17ee01d8ac919fe297b4add735512093.jpg

In appearance Effy is quite casual and grungy but always looks effortlessly cool. Her hair usually looks a bit messy and unkept and her make-up is usually quite basic with a dark eye. I want to give my Claudia this kind of vibe.

Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Girl,_Interrupted_(film)#Plot
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0172493/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skins_(UK_TV_series)
http://www.imdb.com/character/ch0036824/bio